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October 9, 2010
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:iconspectre257:
With my computer finally up and running I finished up this stack. Took this a while ago in my backyard.
I'm not quite sure which constellation it is, this is the view I get out the back on a clear night (only it's a bit dimmer).

The dark brown spot at the bottom is the giant gumtree that was blowing in the wind.

Anyway stacked with DeepSkyStacker and post was done in Photoshop.

Enjoy!
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:iconftpaddict:
=ftpaddict Oct 15, 2010
Oh oh oh oh :excited: How many frames and what exposure/aperture/ISO did you use?

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Live with your conscience.
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:iconspectre257:
~spectre257 Oct 15, 2010  Hobbyist Photographer
The stack was made up of fifty thirty second exposures.
All frames were shot with at f4 and ISO 1600.

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:iconftpaddict:
=ftpaddict Oct 16, 2010
Did you use your camera's intervalometer? (and a question related to that: Can you tell the intervalometer how long the exposures should be? Or is 30" as long as it will go?)

--
Rule with your heart;
Live with your conscience.
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:iconspectre257:
~spectre257 Oct 16, 2010  Hobbyist Photographer
Yup, it was the first time I used the intervalometer feature on my camera.

Interval shooting on my own camera was rather basic: just the interval time and number of frames (limited to 99 shots). Exposure time was limited to 30 seconds (camera's limit), unless I shot in bulb but that sort of defeats the point of this style of stack.
I recommend you get an external interval timer as it will provide you with more flexibility, and yes you can set the interval timer's exposure time to as long as you want.

Hope this helps. :)

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:iconftpaddict:
=ftpaddict Oct 16, 2010
Another question since you may have more experience on this than me - for long exposures, does having a CMOS sensor help a lot more?

The reason I keep bothering you is because I've been given the chance to use a telescope to do deep space photography; and that'll mean lots of stacking and overheating sensors. Thankfully, winter is coming up and the telescope can be taken outside.

--
Rule with your heart;
Live with your conscience.
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:iconspectre257:
~spectre257 Oct 17, 2010  Hobbyist Photographer
Unfortunately I'm not too sure about sensors but what I do know are the Samsung sensors are annoying as hell because you can't turn off DFS, unless you force it off in debug mode.

If it's a cold night I think your camera should be able to handle it perfectly fine, unless you're going at it hardcore like some folks you'd probably need more cooling.

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Visit my blog: [link]
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:iconftpaddict:
=ftpaddict Oct 17, 2010
Well winter is coming up. That ought to be cold enough for the camera to function properly.

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Rule with your heart;
Live with your conscience.
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:iconftpaddict:
=ftpaddict Oct 16, 2010
Intervalometers are expensive :ninja: That's why I was so happy when I learned they made one standard on the K20D.

--
Rule with your heart;
Live with your conscience.
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:iconspectre257:
~spectre257 Oct 16, 2010  Hobbyist Photographer
They're well worth the money if you want to do time-lapsing and startrails.

--
Visit my blog: [link]
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:iconftpaddict:
=ftpaddict Oct 17, 2010
Deep sky photography requires no more than 50 frames, so I should be set with at least a K20D. Of course, because of the silly DFS, I'll need to get a DC adapter for it. :hmm:

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Live with your conscience.
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